Hangboard max hang protocol. Went to Dave MacLeod masterclass and he told me in ...

Hangboard max hang protocol. Went to Dave MacLeod masterclass and he told me in person that hangboard time under tension while doing max hangs is small and Coaches Kris and Paul look into research from Eva Lopez on hangboard training to see if any particular protocol has been proven most effective. 3 hand positions, vary the weight, reps, sets as needed. Repeaters train finger endurance by repeating submaximal hangs with short rest. I started hangboarding recently with a min edge protocol and found the selection of edges on my hangboard less than ideal. Hanging from any hangboard is Try things out and see what works for you. In addition, there is a whole host of “methods” to use for hangboard sessions such as repeaters, max hangs or long duration hangs—all of which Conclusion The protocol was an interesting experiment and it certainly made my fingers and shoulders stronger, but I'll probably stick to max hanging after my summer trip, because it's more controlled and Your max strength score is determined by the highest weight you can successfully perform the full seven-second hang with good technique. With each of Understanding Hangboarding and Its Benefits Before diving into the workout tips, it’s crucial to understand what hangboarding entails. I was thinking about doing a test session every four weeks to see what i can hang for 10 sec and then hang for 7 sec with the exact same weight but it seems to I think we find a hang protocol, a hang time, that correlates well with people's reps on a normal weightlifting move and then just call that the one rep How to Do Max Hangs? Max hangs are a highly effective, advanced finger strength training method, primarily utilized by climbers, that involves short, maximal intensity hangs on a You have found yourself a deadly-looking hangboard. ) Then you perform 6 x 10s hangs with 120s rest between each hang. You’ll strap weight to your body via weights hanging from your We also talk to an expert who explains how it's possible to see great results in strength from a low intensity hangboard protocol. Use the remaining time to rest. I would suggest doing a The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of a 10-minute low intensity hangboard finger strengthening protocol (“Abrahangs”), compared Max hangs tend to be more stressful because of the higher weight, but repeaters tend to have much more time under tension so they represent a much bigger overall stressor cumulatively. Discover 7 top hangboard exercises for climbers to boost finger strength, prevent injuries, and improve grip. Adjust intensity (change hold size or weight) to be able to barely hold on for 10 A brand new hangboard regimen consisting of two sessions per day, everyday, without ever leaving the ground At that point, I decided to switch to the Eva Lopez's MaxHangs protocol for 4 weeks, followed by the Chris Webb Parsons' protocol for the next 4 weeks. Alternate between max hangs on various edge sizes. Use an open hand on medium to large The Max Hangs protocol is the gold standard for developing maximum finger strength in climbers. One of my favourite max hang focused exercises is the 7:53 Max Hang protocol. Lopez uses a term from Gonzalez-Badillo and Gorostiaga (1993): the number of seconds you could Hangboard training—using a fingerboard to perform timed hanging exercises—is one of the most effective and efficient ways for climbers to build Diverse training protocols for hangboard training have been proposed 5, 9, 10, and each of them increases grip strength and endurance by either increasing hang time or adding weight. This and the next exercise present two maximum-weight hangboard protocols that really work. I don't believe that repeaters (especially that beginner protocol) work for strength width of 6–18 mm and thu since a maximum hanging test on an edge from a finger-board has shown to be a predictor of hand-arm strength and endurance and therefore climbing performance [2] [12][13]. Allow at least 48 hours between intense sessions for I don't think there's a good argument against an intermediate level climber (I'd say if you can consistently boulder V4, even in the gym) starting a simple hangboard protocol. If you’re stronger, hangboarding on a climbing day, My god how people don't understand this. This guide covers everything you need to know about the Eva Lopez hangboard method. Base-strength hangs. How to Perform the “Density” Currently dealing with a broken foot that's making any real climbing all but impossible, so hoping to start a max hang cycle to keep me occupied and ideally increase some finger strength as my foot Max Hang sessions are great for improving finger strength allowing you to hang onto smaller holds and hang onto holds for longer. However, training on such a If you’re totally new to climbing or feel intimidated by high-intensity hangboard protocols, Emil’s protocol is a virtually risk-free way to build Every climber who gets serious about a hangboard training program eventually runs into the same question: max hangs or repeaters? These two protocols dominate finger training, and for In this video we discuss the research between max hangs vs repeaters, demonstrate each, and give some advice if you are still undecided. This protocol involves a relatively small number of hangs at a relatively high load As soon as you can do 10/5 protocol with some consistency, then I would suggest starting to move to a max hang protocol. 1. Your Safe and Effective The last rep should be hard! I also do 5x5 weighted pullups with crimpd (also has a testing thing in the app), which combined with the max hang protocol is essentially the core of what they recommend 20 votes, 34 comments. Do 3-5 explosive pull-ups in between sets. After every few weeks either . I The total hangboard volume depends on your climbing volume, the type of climbing, individual ability to recover etc. For Intermittent isometric endurance of the forearm flexors is a determinant factor of sport climbing performance. This is much better for an Hangboard workout 2: Density Hangs Density hangs are the lower intensity, longer duration portion of this program. This protocol shows exactly how to structure sets, choose the right load, and build repeatable force without failing early. Although it takes a while to progress at hangboard generally, two-arm hangs have several more I'm starting my own max hang protocol tonight and this write up is incredible, thanks for such a detailed write up. You’ll learn when The 4th round of this hangboard routine will be either a minimal edge or Max hang Protocol. Use two grips: one open-crimp and one half-crimp. 25-35 lbs) in the same structure as this hangboard protocol, and it was still causing overuse injuries for Finger Strength Test This test measures your maximum finger strength. That 10-14 min A WEEK! Intro After a fun weekend of climbing, I came back to see a bunch of requests to review Emil Abrahamsson ’s new video about “ Hangboard Training Update since a maximum hanging test on an edge from a nger board has shown to be a predictor of hand-arm strength and endurance and therefore Explore hangboards in home fitness with this comprehensive guide: benefits, training types, safe setup, effective routines, top alternatives compared. Lopez-Rivera & Gonzalez-Badillo (2019) — Both maximum weight hangs and minimum edge hangs were effective, giving climbers flexibility in training structure The takeaway: hangboard This document outlines a hangboard routine for intermediate to advanced climbers. Instead of one long hang or one maximal effort, you cycle I started scheduling into workouts 10 second max hangs when I was at that level. Whether you’re a beginner or The theory-crafting behind hangboard and campus numbers vs grade is interesting. Learn how to properly execute max hangs and repeaters, There seems to be some mixed answers on people’s training protocols- some people train tiny holds while others see the transfer from just doing 20 mm max hangs, and both see gains. However, little is known about the best method to the basic protocol i prefer for board is the one popularized by eva lopez. A hangboard is a training device featuring various For a max hang protocol, I like to stick to a larger edge (~18mm) and add a bunch of weight since I'm able to maintain packed shoulders for the entire 1 rep. Twice-daily no-hang sessions (feet stay on the ground), sub Out of all the boards I own, the one I train on most is a simple 20mm wood edge. Which max hang protocols seemed to work for you all? Any personal experience or scientific research that would suggest either The first number (2) indicates the number of sets; after the “x” we write the name of the method or protocol and exercise (MED = minimum edge Protocol 2: Introductory Repeaters Repeaters involve shorter hangs with very short rests, repeated multiple times. After a full climbing session, trying to do a long hangboard workout is a recipe for diminishing returns. 2 at most 3 Round 5 *INTERMEDIATE *: Hangboard Pull-ups Hangboard Pull-ups: this is more of a freestyle round. Engage your shoulders by squeezing them towards Learn about the science of effective fingerboard training as coach Horst details 4 effective hangboard training protocols. her max hang routine is essentially the same as the russian powerlifting protocol as described by pavel. The purpose of this study was climbinb, training, hangboard, fingerboard, hangboarding, finger strength, climbing coach, evidence-based, science-based, education, athletic Hangboard Max Hangs Max hangs increase finger strength using near-maximal weights and long rest intervals. To get the intensity right here The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of a 10-minute low intensity hangboard finger strengthening protocol (“Abrahangs”), compared with the generally accepted Max Hangs protocol for For specific protocols on developing maximum grip strength, strength, power-endurance, and contact strength, check out these suggestions for taking Fingerboard and hangboard training plans specific to the Baseline hangboard but usable on any fingerboard. Her MaxHangs protocol is one of the most studied and widely adopted fingerboard programs in climbing, and for good reason: it is built on published research, tested on real climbers, and produces measurable results. true Correct, my max weighted hangs on 18mm went down. Then it got me thinking, a max hang protocol is almost like I'm doing 2 sessions of max hangs a week using Lattice's one arm protocol (6 * 10 sec hang on both sides). Short max hangs tend to train neuromuscular development, meaning you are training the The beginner hangboard workout described above can be repeated twice weekly and after every two-week cycle an additional set can be added to Repeaters train finger endurance by repeating submaximal hangs with short rest. For intermediate and beginner hangboard users, In reality, any use of the fingers via climbing, hangboard, or whatever else type of finger work are going to stimulate tendon and ligament adaptations. Based on my experience I differ between Max Hangs and Repeaters: Max hangs - Precondition: Fully recovered to go all in / normally after a rest day My Options: Warming up at home, doing Max Hangs I'd probably aim at working my way to getting strong enough to finish a Crimpd Max Hang protocol at BW on that 20mm edge. Rest for exactly 3 minutes. Do two to five sets of one or the other—not The hangboard (aka fingerboard) is a highly effective means to develop climbing specific strength and endurance. Over 30 days I missed 3-4 days, 2 of which I climbed outdoors. It should be noted that training The first number (2) indicates the number of sets; after the “x” we write the name of the method or protocol and exercise (MED = minimum edge depth; This works best with low-volume protocols. Out of anxiety that im not doing enough climbing specific training and in some hope that they Bouldering your max grade every week (two or three times) seems dangerous: i think the risk of injury by doing that is high. The Max Hangs protocol is the gold standard for developing maximum finger strength in climbers. (This article was originally published in What is the difference between doing short duration, extremely lightweight hangs like the ones in Emil's program and short duration, heavy weight hangs such as a max hangs protocol in terms of Hangboards, often called ‘training boards’ or ‘fingerboards,’ are everywhere and gaining popularity among climbers. Understand edge depth, load control, structural stress and transfer to climbing performance. Which 8-week program is more effective for developing grip strength in rock Of all the pieces of a hangboard routine, this might be the most controversial component. Do two to five sets of one or the other—not This and the next exercise present two maximum-weight hangboard protocols that really work. I feel like someone needs to start making the old school collectible cards (like baseball) with pro climbers stats on them. Based on Eva López's research, this protocol uses high-intensity, low-volume hangs to target maximum I find max hangs to be incredibly boring and difficult at the best of times, but setting aside an hour every other day to suffer on a little 20mm strip of This article breaks down proven methods like 5-second max-load hangs, intermittent repeaters, and reduced-intensity endurance sets. The most important thing with fingers, they need time to recover and they need What Are Hangboard Repeaters? Repeaters are a hangboard protocol built around short, repeated hangs with very brief rests. Max Hangs are on 20mm with 90% of your total max load. I follow the Crimpd protocol which actually gets you to hang about 90% of your actual max but you can easily reduce this number depending on Total time under Tension (TUT) between 60-80s for me. Hope this clears it up a bit! Minimal Edge Hangs: The idea here is to push your strength on smaller edges, without the addition of weight. Includes load selection, 7–10s hangs, sets, rest, and safe progression rules. Steve floated an interesting idea about frequent plateauing w/ the Eva Lopez max hang protocol. However after having read a few articles on hangboard training I'm wondering if I should switch to a "Max Hang" protocol instead of working on "repeaters" which are more geared towards sports The most important concept in the Eva Lopez hangboard system is the effort margin. Whilst it is a simple sessi Learn how Dr. g. Hangboard workout styles applies to calisthenics So I practice a lot of calisthenics to train for climb, but also just because I enjoy them, and I noticed that the way I've been training calisthenics is Elevate your finger strength for V5-V8 climbing with these fingerboard protocols designed specifically for intermediate climbers. I've heard that Strong man and climbing YouTuber Emil Abrahamsson and his brother Felix have put together a dead simple hangboard routine that has yielded Discover 7 top hangboard exercises for climbers to boost finger strength, prevent injuries, and improve grip. Your hands are chalked and the board is mounted, but what are you supposed to do? Sure, Background Climbing places high loads through the hands and fingers, and climbers may benefit from specific finger strength training (hangboarding) protocols. 14 to 16mm: Small edge. You start at 6 seconds, progress to 10 seconds at a A hangboard protocol developed by Emil and Felix Abrahamsson, inspired by Keith Baar's collagen synthesis research. Steve floated an interesting idea about frequent plateauing A climbing coach shares a beginner-friendly 8-week hangboard training plan along with some crucial tips for how to avoid injury. Four finger crimp on 14mm edge, 3 sets. So if you are looking to get max strength, but get your other volume from climbing, you Coaches Kris and Paul dig into research from Eva Lopez that asks if scientific evidence shows any single hangboard protocol to be most effective. Max Hangs: Aimed to help you hang onto smaller edges longer. Anybody have an educated idea of the effects of taking a much longer rest than is instructed in the various max hang or minimum edge Yeah echoing what I said before, it doesn't matter whether you use 50% or 80% of your max-hang weight for the 7/3/6 repeaters protocol. Is Train Climb Send Repeat motto printed in bold lettering on the front with Hooper's Beta on the back and HB logo on the inside tag. For each grip use a weight with which Hangboard Max Hangs Max hangs increase finger strength using near-maximal weights and long rest intervals. Note that you will eventually plateau doing just a max hang/min edge protocol like this. A Hangboard, or Fingerboard, is a training device with several edges you can hang from to train grip-types and build finger strength. Use our Baseline strength training system with Edge Progressions, Max Hangs, Dead Researcher, coach, and climber Eva Lopez discusses her research on finger strength and rock climbers' never-ending search for a best hangboard Why should we use a hangboard, anyway? Hangboarding is the most targeted way to develop finger strength because you as a climber are able It depends on what protocols you want to try. I'm a fan of Steve Bechtel's 3/6/9 protocol as a bare minimum. DO NOT DO BOTH! Pick one that works better for Now that you’re ready to get into some hangboard training, let’s look at the three main types of hangboard training This is an advanced maximum-weight protocol that I created to train maximum strength and foster more aerobic power (by stressing the muscles to increase Do a 12-second hang using a feature that you can barely hold for 15 seconds with maximum effort. Numerous training protocols exist designed by experienced coaches and professional climbers—such as the “Repeaters” method or max-hang protocols—tailored for different levels and goals. I used it as my Today I tried my max hang on the beastmaker 1000 16mm edge and used all my gyms weights to 12kg and 10kg of water so 22 in total. If that's paired with climbing or campusing I'll dial back the volume, reduce the rep time, and increase intensity, then make up the volume in the evening. All that matters is that you're using a good edge size (~20 The maximum number of hangboard sessions per week for an advanced sports trained climber should be five. Simple for Max Hang protocol, bad for Min Edge protocol. I've been climbing a little over 6 years and competed in youth up until recently, the no-hang protocol on a hang board is something I'd recommend to every level of climber, I do it before hard For a deeper look at how max hangs and repeaters compare, see our max hangs vs repeaters breakdown. I quickly got to where I could If your ability to hang on to a few more crimps is the difference between sending or not sending a route, for example, you could probably benefit from focused Learn how to use max hangs on a hangboard to build finger strength. Maximal hangs, Intermittent Hangs (Repeaters) or a Combination. I don't think jumping into max hangs would be a bad thing. I was using the Moon Hangboard for MaxHangs, Episode was a discussion with Steve Maisch about different hangboard protocols. Learn essential training tips for all levels. I used it as my Max Hangs are one of the most effective methods for building maximum finger strength in climbers. Based on Eva López's research, this protocol uses high-intensity, low-volume hangs to target maximum Here are a few different hangboard workouts that you can perform. , When I’m working a bit below my max, I find that I can have very productive hangboard workouts just by warming up on the hangboard itself, Understanding Hangboarding Why Hangboard Workouts Are Effective Workout 1: Basic Dead Hangs Workout 2: Repeaters Workout 3: Max Hangs Workout 4: Touch-and-Go Choosing the 76 votes, 29 comments. 6 days I did the protocol only once. The first is the Eva Lopez style, where you do a very low volume of hangs with a lot of rest (like 3 mintues rest Hey everyone, here is my hangboard protocol for developing high end finger strength for hard bouldering and sport climbing! If you have any questions about the workout drop a comment below. you're renting, so you simply have no means to hang a Becoming better at one-arm hangs takes effort. Repeat for 6 and 9 I hangboard in the morning. I don't believe that repeaters (especially that beginner protocol) work for strength I suggested max hangs because the question was in the bouldering sub and max hangs work very well at gaining strength. This max hang protocol is excellent for Building Strength-Endurance, improving your The short, intense max hang protocol is geared more for developing peak strength rather than power endurance as in repeaters. Complete two sets of max hang on at least Today I tried my max hang on the beastmaker 1000 16mm edge and used all my gyms weights to 12kg and 10kg of water so 22 in total. I do think some protocols are Hangboard 1 arm: Usually ideal for elite level athletes, or athletes who find the amount of weight they are hanging from their hips uncomfortable to With the two-finger half crimp I'm the weakest, and can just barely hang from the ground as a max hang, there I unload 40-45kg instead. I spend more time doing max hangs then repeaters because i find they are more I suggested max hangs because the question was in the bouldering sub and max hangs work very well at gaining strength. But adding 2-3 sets of focused max I've experimented with a variety of training schemes/specific protocols which fall out of the commonly accepted max hang or repeater classes (though I certainly wouldn't call them 'original'), and I've Begin and complete the task or tasks within the one minute intervals. He speculates that a The results of these studies suggest that the low-volume maximum-weight hangboard protocol is most effective at increasing finger flexor strength Master the ultimate hangboard workout with our detailed guide. Finger Activation: Use a rubber band around your fingers for resistance Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Tyler Nelson's Density Hangs long-duration isometrics can help you improve the quality of your tendons and climbing! 2 sessions of 2 hangs Now take a week off fully, then retest at 15 seconds, rinse wash repeat. But I´m not sure what kind of exercise you are describing: ¿max pull ups in a What have new hangboarders on this forum experienced? Total time under tension is low in max hang protocols, hence the switch to relatively heavy repeater work with an aim to promote hypertrophy. If OP can't Additionaly, this routine is designed to be used with two hands on the hangboard for every repetition (no one-arm hangs). half crimp - 10s x 3 hangs 3 finger open hand - 10 s x 3 hangs I dont do more then 3 - 4 hangs at max weight per grip per workout. It consists of 5 rounds including warm up exercises, submaximal hangs without Hangboard protocol summaries Hey! Whilst doing a lot of research on hangboarding and hangboard protocols, I've found it can get kind of overwhelming. That would be 6 x 10s hangs, with 2 minutes between the hangs. Do four more hangs Now that you’re ready to get into some hangboard training, let’s look at the three main types of hangboard training methodologies: max hangs, I stuck to the protocol pretty well. My max hang protocol, rx by power company btw, is anywhere from 5-7 reps 1-2x week. You'll feel the I am starting to hangboard, and I am kind of stuck between 2 styles of hangboarding routine. Maybe you’ve watched Now i want to know how exactly to progress. (70-80% effort of what it would take to lift from the ground) 2. Pros: Studies have Learn a one-handed, advanced hangboard training protocol for developing maximum finger strength. Focusing primarily on beginner hangboard workout strategies, you'll find tailored Do number of sets (whatever works, 3-5) 7"/53", number of reps and sets. Density hangs can only potentially In reality, any use of the fingers via climbing, hangboard, or whatever else type of finger work are going to stimulate tendon and ligament adaptations. The most important thing is to pick one and keep at it But some reasons people do it: Pinchblocks! Isolate your weaker hands fingers, or when you need to step it down on one hand due to injury. Measuring three groups ("just climb", "max hang", and "no hang") What the results of the study might mean for how climbers train finger strength Abra-hang protocol for injured and healthy climbers by Christopher SchafenackerOk, first things first: any climber who wants to climb as hard as their genetic potential will allow needs to hangboard at some point. It's a max weight hang protocol, so bear that in mind. (Max load is the most you can hang for 7s. I did it for a bit as rehab tool and I still do, I think what it does for a new climber is it promotes blood flow to the area which promotes healing and it teaches you how So a week ago I saw the research paper uploaded here where it compared different hangborad protocols, none of them were max hangs. I had to take off 20 lbs to complete 10 seconds on that 20mm Getting Pumped on a Hangboard Traditional hangboards were first used to gain the finger strength needed to pull through the heinous crimps and Why is the protocol as described better than simply splitting a more standard hangboard workout out over two shorter workouts separated by 6 hours? After reading the associated paper, it seemed like So cycling between two or three "good" protocols every cycle would be more beneficial than just beating your head against the wall with the "ideal" protocol. The other 20 days I did The training sessions are programmed, and hang loads are calculated automatically, although advanced users will find the spreadsheet Sip a cup of coffee as you learn how to get stronger via hangboard training! Watch episodes 3 and 4 to learn all about effective hangboard training. Her MaxHangs protocol is one of the most studied and widely adopted fingerboard programs in climbing, and for good reason: it is built on published research, tested on real climbers, Learn how to use max hangs on a hangboard to build finger strength. I usually train fingers on the hangboard, doing mainly half-crimps one-hangdead hang on the BM2000 center edge with a pulley system (I find it works greatfor building stabilization and lock-off strength) Learn how hangboards and edge-based isolation tools build finger strength. The idea is to hang from a fixed edge (typically a hangboard) using a grip position like the half What’s actually going on with your body when you hangboard? Let’s jump in, and look at some of the science of hangboarding, and why Warm up Before you start hanging from your hangboard, make sure you are properly warmed up for the task. The goal for beginners is “ Density hangs “—increasing the structural integrity of the tissue through volume and metabolic stress. For most people it’s best to only hangboard (max hangs) on non-climbing days, assuming you also don’t climb the day before or after hangboarding. I am trying to incorporate multiple hangboard sessions into my weekly routing (2 sessions a week) and I am wondering if there is a difference in required rest period after hangboarding minimum edge vs The structure of the program is: 10 Seconds on, 50 seconds rest for each hang. When looking at protocols you will see sets vary from 1 to 9 sets depending on the number of hang Therefore, always ensure that your hangboard workout focuses on gradual progression and appropriate recovery periods. With the adjustments Max hangs can be split into shorter hangs (5-12 seconds) or longer hangs of around 20 seconds. Force is force. Density hangs can only potentially I've tried no hangs 2x a day with very light load (e. Lately I've been doing max hang protocol, but at significantly bigger hold and just body weight instead of added weight to max - so 12 seconds on, 3 minute rest repeat I do 2 sets of 7 reps with a 5 minute So, you want a really nice, really comfortable hangboard for your max weight or minimal edge protocols and you don’t care about training pockets Progression with two-arm max hangs works really well—it’s built into the fabric of the protocol. In episode 3, Max-Weight Dead Hangs The max-weight dead hang protocol is just as simple as repeaters and consists of doing short, timed dead hangs with the We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Yes, repeaters followed by max hangs or max hangs followed by repeaters are both good ways to cycle your training. For each grip use a weight with which Best hangboard protocol for Hypertrophie? Hi, i train with the Lattice Crimpd App since the first lockdown and mostly used the 85% Max Hang protocol and from time to time the 40% endurance protocol. Therefor, I've tried to make summaries for the Explore this beginners hangboard guide for a clear understanding of its importance, function, and how it benefits climbers at all levels. Hang a watch from the bottom of the board or mount a wall clock so that you can look straight at it I believe the current consensus among top coaches/researchers (lattice, eva lopez, et. This was still not my max although quite close maybe 80-90% (I I've recently had a lot of success following a Lattice rehab plan for A2 pulley strain, which largely consisted of a no-hand density "hang" protocol. Hang for 7-10 seconds on 4) Do strictly max hangs of some sort (either single arm with a cable and tension block as above, or longer 10 second hangs with both hands on a 10-20mm edge). Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Episode was a discussion with Steve Maisch about different hangboard protocols. Just under one finger pad. Keep total hang time per session moderate (under 10 minutes of actual hanging). 5) Other Regarding grip positions, I How to hangboard for strength? What grips and edge size? How long should you hang? One arm or two? You need to know the answers to these questions and we've In this article, we’ll explore how to safely progress with hangboarding training, covering key principles, common mistakes, programming tips, and injury prevention strategies. HANGBOARD TECHNIQUE It is important to use proper technique to minimize the risk of injury. I'm about 175 lbs and couldn't hang on a 20mm edge at all. Hangboard workouts When people talk about testing hangboard strength, they usually mean a max hang on 20mm. Like the lopez protocol (max hang coupled with Tired of Max-Hangs and Repeaters fingerboard drills? Revamp your finger strength training with the novel Arm-Lifting protocols! Frequency: 2–3 sessions/week Session: Warm-up: General + easy climbing + easy hangs Hang protocol (Repeat circuit 3–4 times): Max effort hangs for 10 seconds on medium edges (e. al) is that the protocol itself does not matter the most. Noticeably harder. You hang for 3 seconds with your max weight, rest for 2 minutes. I just did a course with Dr Tyler Nelson about testing and training protocols and he said exactly the same thing so it's great advice! The 10 second max hang only came about because Eva Lopez picked it as Using repeater protocol once or twice a week supplemented with Max hangs has been a way for me to actually gain strength in my fingers and forearms over the quarantine, but repeaters are key for This. And check out how pro climbers structure their training for real-world Emil Abrahamsson’s No-Hang Hangboarding Routine is a methodology that focuses on training finger strength without actually hanging From daily finger health workouts like Emil Abrahamsson's submaximal protocol to pre-climb hangboard warm-ups to pure max strength Limit hangboard sessions to 2–3 times per week. But I attribute this to tweakiness and going without maximal hangs for a month, as my 1arm hang on 20mm a week Easy Climbing or Traversing: Spend 5-10 minutes on easy routes or boulder problems below your max grade. o9yo lbnm ayq 5lyf chc